In August 2017, after an arduous summer studying the Armenian language in Yerevan, I made a visit to the nearby Republic of Nagorno Karabakh, home to a population of 100,000 Armenians, members of the first nation to convert to Christianity. Even though I was only there for a few days, I was enchanted by this ancient Christian land – its green mountains, the stone medieval churches dotting the landscape, and the exceptional kindness of the people who lived there.
At the time, I had no idea that I was visiting a country that would soon disappear forever.